Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
